Thursday, February 9, 2012

Tree Trimming: Part 2

Okay, admit it, some, most or all your trees need some work. If you've inherited trees then it's not your fault. Blame it on the previous owner. Maybe you've been focused on other things... like your job, paying the bills, and surviving in a dismal economy. It's alright, but maybe it's time to actually do something about the situation, and try to salvage some of what you've invested in. If you don't have a clue, or much of one, about what distinguishes a well trimmed tree from one heading in the wrong direction, then it might be a good idea to look for some help. Find someone or something (uncle Google) that can provide some insight on the matter. Some things to look for are: crossing or rubbing branches, branches that are too close together, too many branches on one side of a tree, double leaders (depends on the species, some, like most maples, don't produce a single leader).

If a tree needs a lot of trimming, it may have to be spaced out over a few years. You can't cut half the branches off a tree and expect it to survive. If you've never done much or any tree trimming seek out some written material on the subject. I'm only trying to sell you on the concept--that it might be a good idea. Another advantage to winter trimming is time: winter is long in these parts, and if you singled out a tree a week, or a month, in your yard, you could work your way through all of them in the course of one of our interminable winters. Give you something to do outdoors, get some fresh air and exercise, do some good to your property in the process.

Ten different tree trimmers (or services) might trim a given tree ten different ways; there is no one right answer necessarily. Personal taste factors into the equation; I like to remove lower branches (anything below eight feet or so) to encourage vertical growth and to keep my hat on while mowing or walking in the summer. This drives my wife nuts; she wants to be able to climb the tree (nevermind that she never will, but she likes the idea--call it dreams of a second childhood). So you may have to develop tastes of your own to a certain extent. Some branches are no-brainers, and need removing for reasons listed above; some are matters of taste: what's your idea of the ideal shape for the tree? And a little bit of education about the variety of tree factors in: for example, an understory tree (like a Redbud), or an ornamental (like tree-lilac or flowering crab) are never going to look like a towering oak or basswood, and would be pruned differently.

I could spend some time talking about tools, but again that gets into the how's, and I wanted to avoid that. I do use a pole saw a lot, however, especially to reach higher than I otherwise would, or eliminate the need for a ladder. Of all my tree trimming tools it's close to the most useful one I own. It pays to keep it sharp, to speed up and make the cuts cleaner. In closing, I hope I've persuaded you to at least consider your trees and their needs.

This photo is a bench we built into a retaining wall (Chilton, Ashlar). The seat is a piece of stone I was lucky enough to find at Rivard Stone -- a natural piece, no cutting necessary.

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